Expensive wine 6-25-2025

Gus Clemens on Wine explores and explains the world of wine in simple, humorous, fun posts

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Expensive wine 6-25-2025

Is expensive wine worth it?

Gus Clemens

Jun 25, 2025

Transcript

This is the weekly column

People ask what was the most expensive wine I ever received for review. I think their question reflects curiosity about what wine I get to review and how does expensive wine taste.

From the beginning, my work was directed at wine that people could purchase in a local store, or at least online. So reviewing 30-year-old wines costing four figures was out of the question, even if I obtained such wine through some vinological miracle.

The CliffsNotes answer to “what’s the most expensive” question is around $250. Such offerings are not common, but not rare. Some come with strings attached—in exchange for receiving the wine, they ask me to interview the winemaker—or chef de cave, the cellar master in charge of making Champagne. My answer: “Sure, Brer Fox don’t throw me into that briar patch.” The marketeer sending the wine also knows if I spend the effors to interview the winemaker, there is excellent chance there will be a review. And a very good chance the wine will be worthy of a review.

The expensive wines generally are Champagnes and Napa cabernet sauvignons. In most cases, these are legitimately priced offerings. Some, however, are nice enough wines with a flashy price slapped on to create the illusion of superior quality. Buyer beware. Over-inflated prices can be found on some subscription wine club offerings—it gives the illusion of a bargain. I seldom receive or review such wines. High prices can suggest high quality, but does not guarantee it.

The next level down of ultra premium wines fall into the “around $100” range. These are much more commonly offered for me to review. They often are excellent wines, as I strive to convey in my reviews. But, are they really worth the premium price? There rests a classic dilemma.

Do you buy a $105 bottle of unarguably very good wine, or do you buy four bottles of almost as good—or as good—wine. Or five or six bottles of pretty good wine? If you are a casual drinker or really can’t tell the difference, the more affordable is the obvious answer.

Today, almost any wine you buy for $15 or more is a good wine. Buy it, drink it that evening, don’t sweat the credit card bill or the negative blather of some condescending critic. If you get deeper into wine, the higher shelf offerings will be there waiting for you. Or you can happily stick with old friends. The wine you enjoy is the right wine for you.